Subtraction Cutting

Subtraction Cutting is the name of a experimental method called "Hollow Construction". It's created by Fashion Designer and academic Julian Roberts. He is a proffesor that have been taught at Universities worldwide since 1998. These technique have been available online since 2001. Both womens and mens can used diversely.

The pattern build from a flat piece of fabric. Using the negative spaces (hollow) to create drape and volume instead of following the garment oter shape.

After learn and know about Subtrction Cutting, we tried to make it by ourself. It's interesting and fun experiment, but for me, my experiment failed.

Here some picture of my experiment (All Photo below taken by myself)

For do the experiment we need to preapare, 2x 2 meter not stiff fabric (jersey, polyesther cotton)

- Sew the fabric together on same measurement length.

- Place the basic bodice pattern.

- Re-draw the pattern with white chalk.

- I want the top part black colour, so I draw on the top.

- Join the back seam with the back seam and the front seam with front seam.

- Cut it, but only the first layer of the fabric.

- Sew the the shoulder and the seam.

- It's already done a half way.

- Put in the mannequin, and draped it.

- Give a mark and make an circle on both side of the fabric that you already draped (on different palce).

- After marking the circle cut it and Join (sew) together.

- It look, like that.

For me my dress failed and ugly, because it dosen't look linteresting or nice. It a dress that you cannot use and so messy. The only part that I like only a deep drapped that looks can use as a pocket.

Resource:

https://subtractioncutting.tumblr.com/

http://www.thecuttingclass.com/subtraction-pattern-cutting-with-julian-roberts/