Capsule Collection's Toile (Set 1- 5)

After did a research and sketching, I must make a toile. most of my toile and colour story inspired by geisha costume especially OBI, the painting of the Hokusai Wave. I started my first toile in week 9 of term 1.

Here some photo and explanation about my toile:

( All photo taken by myself )

1. TOILE LOOK 1

The special things from this look is the ribbon at the back. It's not detchable, and it doesn't have a styleline. The ribbon is the part of the bodice and the collar which tied together. I knew this technique from "pattern magic" book.

- Toile 1 Corection ( Bodice )

1. Adjust the length of the shoulder ( the back shoulder is shorter by 2 cm from the from).

2. Give extra 2cm or 3 cm for the back Collar ( because from the picture the bodice's ribbon is bigger).

3. Give a facing for back Collar ( for finishing).

4. The finishing of hem bodice is roll hem.

5. Make the length of the blouse be the same measurment.

6. Change the wasitbandinto a rectangle ( cause at the first it follow the bodice shape).

7. Check the waistband measurment.

8. Think about the closer of the waistband ( zipper or snap button )

9. Modifying the Sleeve design, so it will look more interesting.

- Toile 1 Corection ( Skirt )

1. Smaller the skirt waistband by 2cm

2. The shape of the pattern need more wavy

- Fabric Suggestion

1. Bodice : Light fabric ( Taffeta polyesther, Jersey polyesther, Sil, Chiffon, Crepe)

2. Skirt : Polyesther

- Small sample for the skirt pattern

2. TOILE LOOK 2

I have quiet many mistake in toile 2 until I need to re-sew the bodice. For the back of the coat also need to change because it's look very horrible. I must make a new toile for the bodice because I use a wrong block (size 8, which I suppose use size 6) when I draft it. I decided to make the outer look something like this:

- Toile 2 Corection ( Bodice )

1. Re-shape the boobs draft.

2. Think about the finishing ( Zipper or lacing)

3. TOILE LOOK 3

- My third toile it's a top with pants.

- The ribbon on the front and peplum on sleeve are make it look more Japanese.

- The top is a bustier with off- shoulder long sleeve, and to make it more interestng I madethe cuff into a peplum.

-The pants is a flare pants with side pocket and welt pocket at the back.

TOILE REVISION

1. Give a extra length for the ribbon (too short).

2. Re- shape the boobs area (because it's to big).

3. Put a net fabric in the ribbon and peplum to make it stiff.

4.Think about the closing of the bodice.

5. Re-shape the peplum on the sleeve.

- I made this during the term break.

- After did a correction and looking at my toile. I was thinking thatit didn't look interesting I decided to chane the pants into a short and give a waistband.

- I change my pants and made it shorter.

- Because I still not sure about the fit of the short, so I decided to make a new toile.

- But I if I made it short it won't match with the other look, so I must think how to make it look match with the other.

- I made the short a high-waistband, because I forget if I have a waistband for this look.

- I want the short it's very short and fitted, but I also afraid it's too tight, so I give 1.5 cm for the allowence.

- To make sure how it's looks like, I put all the element on the manequine.

- I change quite many things for this look. The only thing that I keep is the top part.

- The other thing that I add on is the skirt.

SHORT RE-VISION

- The mistake of this short is at the crotch. It's too bulky, and it's happen because I have a facing. I change it into 2cm allowence for the bodice.

- I also double check to my drating and I found another mistake. I make the crotch like a triangle, which it's suppose 90 degrees.

SKIRT SAMPLE

- When I daft the skirt I was thinking why can't I make it as 1 ppieces of pattern.

- But I doubt about the look, so I make a sample to know how it's look like.

- The left photo is one piece pattern and it's look like a tube.

- The right photo is have a side seam at the side which is more flare

- I choose the pattern with a seam.

SKIRT TOILE RE-VISION

- For this skirt I only need to give more volume for the skirt, which I only need to flare it.

- I separate it into 3 and give 25 cm gap between.

- This the poto after I separete it.

- I do this both for the fornt and back pattern.

TOILE LOOK 4

- My fourth look is consist of 3 pieces. A bustier, see-through Jacket and a flare pants.

- For the Jacket I use a pattern magic book to draft it. I think it will easier than my first look but it's harder.

- For the pants I want see how it look when I use different thickness of fabric

- Left side of the pants is use muslin (more stable fabric).

- Right side is using silk fabric (more soft and thin fabric).

- Finally I choose to use the thick fabric because I have a nice fabric for it.