Capsule Collection- All Actual Garment
- LOOK 1-
This is my first look of Capsule Collection.
It's consist of top, skirt and waistband.
For the skirt of this look I did a sunray pleating, which is my first time use a pleating in my design. At the first I thought that cut and sew sunray pleating is the same with usual basic skirt, but is totally different. Luckily my teacher taught me step by step, snd mske sure that I undestand. Here some photo of my process:
(All photo below has taken by myself)
When I tried to top stich the pink organza it's became very wavy and looks very ugly. Luckily after done with the pleating it became nice and the wavy it's not very obvious.
1. First you need to know, where is the up and the below part (hem part).
2. Cut the waist part and only lect around 2cm from the pleats begin.
3. Do the same thing for the below part.
After finish I also need cut the side of the pleats but give an extra 1cm fo each part.
It will look somehing like the photo above.
After I done elimate the unused fabric I have problem about it. The line that I top stich on the of organza (pink color) is not match. It's the first time for me to top stitch organza on the top of organza. it's very hard because it's slippery.
The other thing that make this look interesting is the bow at the back. This bow is draft with pattern magic book. The reason why I did this drafting because it will have clean look and more advanced technique, eventhough it will more easy. Everybody can easily think that if they want similar design. But not everyone can think how to make the look clean, without seamline.
- LOOK 2 -
This second look are consits of a top, cape and pants. I have some trouble when I made this look. I need to re-toile for the halter neck bodice and completely change the drafting of the pants because the previous pants is only slim pants without styline.
The picture above is the photo of my old pants pattern before I change it.
It suppose to be a slim pants with a styline in the side. I will put a weaving fabric manipulation on the styline.
This is the picture after I change the draft. It become curve which represent one the kimono pattern during that time. For this pattern I need to look back to my research and finding a matching or suitable pattern for this look.
To looking which pattern that can work nicely on this look, I cut a paper shape a half of pants and looking the nice pattern for it.
- LOOK 2 problem
this problem appear because I have a limited fabric for look 2. I bought this fabric from Indonesia and I don't buy much, I only buy it around 1,5 m with width 1,4 m.
I tried to sequeeze it, to make it fit. The mistake that I made is because I didn't check the under layer of the pattern, but because this incident i become more carefull and check it before i cut the fabric.
Luckily this bustier is little bit bigger that size 6, so I still can stitch it a little bit more by 0.5 cm.
It's also my first time for me to use the fushing machine, because in Diploma usually we use iron and covered it with a paper.
At the first I'm quite afraid if my fabric get burn or if my hand accidentally touch the hot area.
- LOOK 3 -
The fabric that I use for this look is raw- silk.
I really like this fabric. It has a paper thickness but the texture is soft and some type of this fabric also have 2 tone color, because it woven in 2 different color.
Here some photo of my work:
- First I sew the side piece of the pocketto the pocket bag.
- I finished the side pocket and attatched to the bodice.
- Actually, at the first I made a wrong size for the pocket bag, because I made it 2 time bigger.
- After done with the pocket, I do a french seam to joint the center back and the center front skirt.
- I did the running stitch and gathered the skirt.
- It's little bit hard because the fabric is siff and can easily frey.
- I didn't do a lining for this skirt, because the wrong side of this fabric is really interesting.
- The other mistake that I made is that I overlock the edges of the pocket. It's look not nice, may be I suppose to bias the edges of the pocket bag.
- At the first I want to make my own bias tape, which made from the jumpsuite fabric, but the fabric is not enough, so I buy sateen bias.
- There some part that the edges stitch for the hem is out. It's because slippery, when I did the edge stitch, so sometime the stitch is over and I need to unpick and re-sew it.
- After finish with the bias, I fold it by 2 cm and pin it and did a slip stich all around.
- It's the longest slip stich that I ever made, around 10 m.
- After done with skirt I move to the jumpsuite.
- Before I interface the fabric ( I interface the fabric because it's to thin) I must iron and steam it, because the last time, the fabric became wrinkle.
- After done with th bodice and the skirt, I decided which fabric that lok nicer for this sleeve ( fabric with a pattern or plain).
- At the end I choose the pattern fabric because the plain fabric looks not matchwith the skirt as we can see from the picture.
- The next thing that I do is the sleeve's peplum.
- I hand-stitch a hard Net to make the peplum stand and stiff.
- I'm a little bit curious how it will look if I put a horse-hair on the top of the net, because I want the peplum more stiff.
- So I put on the manequine and compare it.
- As we can see, the one with horse-hair is too stiff without a horse- hair is look wavy and I like that more because it look natural.
- LOOK 4 -
- This is the final look of my fourth look.
- It's totally different with the toile.
- It's happen when the sunray pleat is done. Here the process:
- After look at the sunray pleat at the manequine, I decided the measurment and I make it not too long only arounf 70cm.
- I cut it and give an extra 2 -3 cm for allwonce.
- After sure abou the measurment I cut the pleats.
- This is the look after I cut it.
-After done with cutting the unused part I count how many pleats it is and spilt it into 2 part, for right and left sleeve.
- But after I cut the fabric, I realize that it too small if for a sleeve.
- Finally I decided to use the fabric and drape some of outer for it.
- It's made me quite upset because it took quite time to draft the outer.
Here some photo of my drape:
- For this drape I use the below part of the pleat, which usually thrown by people.
- this is use the pleat that I cut for the sleeve.
( Right picture is Front, Left picture is back)
- For this drape I let the pleat fall naturally. This is some simple and easy to make, but it's also interesting, so I decided to use this look.
