Final Collection LOOK-1

For this toile I need to do a re-toile until 5 time because several problem, but the most problem is because the flow of the fabric. The flow of the fabric is become important because my design is quite simple .

Toile 1

In this first toile I mae the bodice and the neckline is pleated, but it make the overlook toile is to stiff and the flow is not like what I want. So I decided to change it into gathers.

The other mistake that I made is that I also pleated the shoulder and become too bulky. I need to redo my overall top pattern of my look 1.

Other thing that I need to change is the sleeve. I put a hard net under the organza fabric because I want make it stiff, but it look to stiff.

I cut the back bodice because I have a inside top that use a lace fabric and I have an embellishment detail.

Toile 1- Revision 2

For the second time I already made a new pattern for the bodice and the collar.

For the bodice I make it a half gather and the half pleated because I want see the different between of it.

I also decided to make the bodice and the collar gathered together and pull it with drawstring.

Toile 1- Revision 3

There's not much thing that I change in this toile. I only make the center front of the bodice shorter and make the collar and the bodice gathered together.

Toile 1- Revision 4

For the next toile I made it with the more soft fabric. It look have more volume and more drappery. I haven't choose what fabric that I will use for this set because it's depends what fabric that I will found in Hong Kong.

Toile 1- Revision 5

This is the final look of the fifth toile that I made. I already shorter the front bodice. Gathered the neckline with the bodice with a drawstring.

Actual Look-1

As I mention before that I will use a jewel colour with a pattern fabric, so it can get the feeling of the ballet russes.

(Here the photo of the prosses)

I just know that there a few step that we need to do before we cut an organza fabric.

The first thing that I need to do before cut the fabric is straighten the fabric. This is the new thing for me to learn, even though I already used an organza fabric before.

After make sure that the fabric is straighten with the table, I placed my pattern on the top of the fabric and give load (usually a metal load, but I just use a book) to hold pattern so it will more stable. After that I can pin the pattern and cut it. When I cut the fabric I need to make sure that I don't move the fabric, so it can be accurated.

Because the design of this look is quite simple, so I don't have many styline. After joining the yoke I need did a roll-hem. It's also my first time use a roll-hem footer. At the first I think that it will easy and save a time rather than did a manual roll-hem.

I tried to do a roll-hem in the scratch fabric. The truth is that it's very hard to do a roll-hem especially on the straight grain. If you use a roll-hem footer it must on the one go,so cannot stop on the half way. I spend many hour to do it and finally I need ask for my teacher help after I spen a half day to do it without success.

The above picture is the photo of the front after I do a roll-hem. I like how it's look like because the flow it's excatly like what I want.

For the back bodice I think the flow can be more flowy but it still look like nice for me.

photo on the above is a gathered sleeve but because I still not sure about my sleeve I tried to make a another sleeve's toile.

The left photo is the new toile that I made and the left picture is the use the previous pattern.

I choose the left sleeve because that is the sleeve that I want. It look more dramatic and flowy that I think it more match for my my collection.

The next thing that I need to do is bias piping for the armhole.

As we can see the right picture is show that the bias is too big anf bulky while left picture is show that the bias is neatly. It's because for the left armhole I trim the allowence a little bit to make sure that is even, and I cannot pull the fabric when I sew because It can be stretch if I do that.

After done with the outer I continue to make the inside. Theres no a special method to cut the lace. I just need to make sure that it mirror between the left and the right side.

The problem was come when I done bias the armhole of the lace. I get scolded by my teacher because it strecth so much. I cannot recut this lace because it will spen my time for did a bias for every side seam. So I fold the arcmhole to inside and slip stitch it. Luckily I can to that because the lace is the inside piece so it will not a big problem if i take in the armhole more than it suppose to be.

For the necline I need to lowerer it because I want to use an invisible zipper and I will sew it upside down

To not do a same mistake for the neckline, I ask my teacher how to do a bias it without stretch it too much. first I need to handstitch it and do a double fold, after that I can sew it with machine.

I know that my design is quite simple if compare with my other friend. So I must do something with it, either I make a fabric manipulation or embellishment. I choose to do an embellishment on the lace on the back view.